# Assessment 05.3: Unit 5 Test, Make It, Mend It, Wear It **Unit:** Unit 5, Make It, Mend It, Wear It (Apparel and Textile Production and Design) **Given in:** Lesson 5.19 Day 2 (day 143), the last 20 minutes, after the 15-minute review game **Points:** 50, plus 2 bonus. Topic assessments category. One retake after a review, best score counts. **Covers:** Topic 5.1 What We Wear and Why (items 1 to 4), Topic 5.2 Hand Sewing Skills (items 5 to 10), Topic 5.3 Smart Apparel Consumers (items 11 to 15), Topic 5.4 Upcycle Challenge and sustainability (items 16 and 17), Topic 5.5 Careers (item 18), then one scenario (item 19) and one short written response (item 20) **Items:** 20 in 20 minutes * * * # Unit 5 Test (student version) Name: ______________________ Date: __________ Period: ______ Directions: Answer every item. Write in the space under each one. Show your work on the two math items (11 and 19b); a calculator is allowed on those two only. If you are not sure, write what you think and why. You have 20 minutes. The scenario and the written response are at the end, so leave five minutes for them. ## Part 1: What We Wear and Why **1.** (2 points) Match the situation to the clothing feature it needs most. Write the letter. Features: A) closed-toe shoes and tied-back hair B) layers you can take off C) high-visibility color D) a wrinkle-resistant fabric ____ Working at a sewing station with pins and shears ____ Walking home in weather that starts cold and turns warm ____ Riding a bike near traffic at dusk ____ A shirt for a family event, packed in a bag all day **2.** (3 points) Write the fiber that best matches each property. Use each answer once. Fibers: cotton, wool, polyester, spandex (elastane) ____________ Absorbent and comfortable, but it wrinkles and can shrink ____________ Keeps you warm even when it is damp, and it can felt with heat and agitation ____________ Resists wrinkles and dries fast, but it can hold odor and melts under a hot iron ____________ Stretches and springs back; it is the fiber in a garment that usually fails first **3.** (3 points) What does each care symbol tell you to do? One short answer each. a) A tub of water with a hand in it: ________________________________ b) A tub of water with an X through it: ________________________________ c) A triangle with an X through it: ________________________________ d) An iron with one dot: ________________________________ **4.** (2 points) You are sorting a laundry basket. Write the sorting rule you would use, and name one thing that has to be washed separately from the rest and why. Sorting rule: ________________________________________________ Washed separately, and why: ________________________________________________ ## Part 2: Hand Sewing Skills **5.** (3 points) Match the tool to its job. Write the letter. Tools: A) seam ripper B) thimble C) pins D) needle threader E) fabric shears F) measuring tape ____ Holds two pieces of fabric together before you stitch ____ Takes out a stitch you want to undo without cutting the fabric ____ Protects the finger that pushes the needle through ____ Cuts fabric, and is never used on paper ____ Gets the thread through the eye when your hands or eyes need help ____ Finds the length of something that is not straight **6.** (2 points) Our room runs a count-out and a count-in every day tools are out. Write what each one is, in one sentence each. Count-out: ________________________________________________ Count-in: ________________________________________________ **7.** (3 points) Match the stitch to the job it does best. Write the letter. Stitches: A) running stitch B) backstitch C) whipstitch D) button stitch ____ A seam that has to hold weight, because each stitch doubles back on the one before it ____ Closing a raw edge or a folded opening with small slanted stitches over the edge ____ A fast line of stitches used for a drawstring channel, a gather, or a basting line ____ Holds a fastener on, with a shank so the fastener has room to work **8.** (2 points) You are sewing the bottom seam of a pencil case that will hold ten pencils. Which stitch do you use, and why that one in one sentence? Stitch: ______________________ Why: ________________________________________________ **9.** (2 points) Name two things that make a sewn-on button actually hold. 1. ____________________________________ 2. ____________________________________ **10.** (3 points) A repair decision. For each damaged item, write H for hem, S for seam repair, P for patch, or B for button, whichever repair it needs. ____ The stitching along the inside of a pant leg has opened for two inches, and both fabric edges are still whole. ____ There is a hole the size of a quarter worn through the knee of a pair of jeans. ____ The bottom of a pair of pants is too long and the folded edge has come undone. Now write one sentence: which of those three repairs would you NOT try on a garment somebody is depending on tomorrow, and why? ________________________________________________ ## Part 3: Smart Apparel Consumers **11.** (3 points, show your work) Cost per wear. a) A $72 winter coat [update] worn 180 times. Cost per wear = $______ b) A $20 shirt [update] worn 4 times. Cost per wear = $______ c) Which one was the more expensive item to own, and how do you know? ________________________________________________ **12.** (2 points) Name one advantage and one risk of buying clothing at a secondhand shop. Advantage: ________________________________ Risk: ________________________________ **13.** (2 points) Name two hidden costs of buying a piece of clothing from an online marketplace, besides the listed price. 1. ______________________ 2. ______________________ **14.** (2 points) You are holding two sweatshirts. Name two quality checks you can do in the store in under a minute, and say what a good result looks like for one of them. Check 1: ______________________ Check 2: ______________________ A good result on check ____ looks like: ________________________________ **15.** (2 points) A student needs one sweatshirt to last two winters and has $50 [update]. Between a $13 thin fleece with single-needle seams and 8 stitches per inch, and a $38 heavy cotton blend with double-needle seams and 11 stitches per inch, which do you recommend and why? One sentence. ________________________________________________________________ ## Part 4: Upcycling and Sustainability **16.** (2 points) Write U for upcycle or R for recycle. ____ A plastic bottle is melted down and made into new polyester thread. ____ A pillowcase is sewn into a drawstring bag somebody uses for gym clothes. Then, in one sentence, say what makes one of them upcycling: ________________________________ **17.** (2 points) Name two of the four things a person can actually do about clothing waste, and for one of them name something you personally did in this unit. 1. ______________________ 2. ______________________ What I did: ________________________________ ## Part 5: Careers **18.** (3 points) Match the career to what the person does. Write the letter. Careers: A) alterations specialist B) technical designer C) textile scientist D) quality inspector E) upholsterer F) buyer ____ Tests fabric in a lab for shrinkage, strength, and colorfastness ____ Hems, takes in, and replaces zippers and buttons all day in a shop ____ Checks finished garments against a spec, counts stitches per inch, and rejects what fails ____ Rebuilds furniture with new fabric, foam, and springs, often as a small business Now name one career from this unit that a person usually enters by training on the job or through an apprenticeship: ______________________ ## Part 6: Scenario and written response **19.** (4 points) A scenario. Mia has a jean jacket she wears almost every day. Right now: one cuff button is missing, the inside side seam has opened for three inches, there is a small hole worn through near the pocket corner, and the jacket has been washed hot and tumble dried on high since she got it. She is about to throw it out and buy a new one for $54 [update]. a) Name the repair for each of the three problems (one word each): ________________ , ________________ , ________________ b) (Show your work) The jacket cost $54 and Mia has worn it 300 times so far. What is her cost per wear right now? $______ If she repairs it and wears it 200 more times, what is the new cost per wear? $______ c) Name one thing she should change about how she washes it, and why: ________________________________ **20.** (3 points) In four to six sentences, answer this: a friend says "it is cheaper to just buy a new one than to fix things." Using what you learned in this unit, write your answer. Use the words cost per wear, quality, and repair. ________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________ Grade 8 stretch (2 bonus points): name one thing about the clothing system that a shopper cannot fix alone, and say who would have to act. ________________________________________________ Exit line (on the back, not scored): The item I was surest about was number ___. The one I want to go over is number ___. * * * # Teacher key Points per item are printed in the item. Accept any answer that is correct and specific even if it is not the one listed. A calculator is allowed on items 11 and 19b only. **Before you print this test:** items 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 9, and 10 check Topics 5.1 and 5.2, which are taught in Lessons 5.1 to 5.11 by the other half of this unit. Read those lessons and the Fibers and Care Quiz before printing, and adjust the wording of any item whose vocabulary differs (especially the four care symbols in item 3 and the tool list in item 5). Nothing in the key is wrong, but the words should match what the class heard. [Sal: check item 3 against the care symbol chart you actually hand out.] | Item | Answer | Points | Standard line checked | |---|---|---|---| | 1 | A, B, C, D in that order. Half point each. | 2 | ATPD 1. b); HSW 4. d) | | 2 | cotton; wool; polyester; spandex (elastane). Three quarters of a point each, or score 3 for all four correct, 2 for three, 1 for two. | 3 | ATPD 3. a); National FCS 16.2.2 | | 3 | a) hand wash only; b) do not wash (in water), take it somewhere else or dry clean; c) do not bleach; d) iron on low heat (one dot is the lowest setting). Three quarters of a point each. Accept any wording that means the same. | 3 | ATPD 3. b); National FCS 16.2.3 | | 4 | Sorting rule: by color (whites, lights, darks) and by fabric or care instruction, or by temperature the label calls for (1 point). Washed separately, with a reason: a new red or dark item that will bleed dye; a towel or anything that sheds lint away from fleece and dark knits; a delicate or hand-wash item; anything greasy or soiled. 1 point for the item plus the reason. | 2 | ATPD 3. b), 3. c); National FCS 16.4.3 | | 5 | C, A, B, E, D, F in that order. Half point each. | 3 | ATPD 2. a); National FCS 16.4.1 | | 6 | Count-out: at the start of the period the Station Manager counts the needles and pins out of the tin, out loud, and writes the number on the station card (1 point). Count-in: at the end every needle and pin goes back in the tin, is counted out loud, and the number must match before anybody is dismissed (1 point). Accept any answer that has the count, the number written or matched, and the dismissal rule. | 2 | ATPD 2. b); HSW 4. c), 4. e) | | 7 | B, C, A, D in that order. Three quarters of a point each. | 3 | ATPD 2. c); National FCS 16.4.5 | | 8 | Backstitch (1 point). Reason: each stitch doubles back over the one before it, so it is the strongest of the taught stitches and it will not pull open when the case is full (1 point). Accept any reason that names strength or a seam that carries load. | 2 | ATPD 2. c); National FCS 16.4.5 | | 9 | Any two, 1 point each: enough passes through the holes (four to six) so no single thread carries the load; a shank, meaning a little slack or a spacer so the button sits above the fabric and the buttonhole has room; a knot on the wrong side that holds, with a trimmed tail; stitching through the same spot on the fabric each time rather than spreading out; wrapping the thread under the button to form the shank and knotting off there. | 3 | ATPD 2. c); National FCS 16.4.5 | | 10 | S, P, H in that order (half point each, 1.5 total). The sentence: 1.5 points for naming a repair and a reason that would satisfy somebody depending on the garment. A strong answer names the patch, because a worn hole needs more time and the area around it is already weak, so a rush job will fail; accept naming the seam repair if the reason is about needing to test it before wearing it. Accept any defended answer. | 3 | ATPD 2. c), 2. d); PSI 3. a) a., d. | | 11 | a) 72 divided by 180 = $0.40 per wear; b) 20 divided by 4 = $5.00 per wear; c) the $20 shirt, because its cost per wear is more than twelve times higher, even though its price was lower. 1 point each, work shown on a and b. | 3 | ATPD 4. a); FCL 4. f); Std 3 PI C; CDOS 3a Basic Skills; National FCS 16.5.2 | | 12 | Advantage (1 point): lowest price for the quality, often heavier fabric and better construction than a new discount item, keeps a garment out of the waste stream, you can inspect it in your hands. Risk (1 point): one size only, sold as-is with no returns, may have a flaw, may be worn out where you cannot see it, no guarantee it is there tomorrow. | 2 | ATPD 4. b); FCL 4. g); National FCS 2.1.4 | | 13 | Any two, 1 point each: shipping; return shipping paid by the buyer; a restocking or return fee; sizing risk, because you cannot try it on; waiting time; not being able to inspect quality before you pay; sales tax added at checkout. | 2 | ATPD 4. b); FCL 4. g) | | 14 | Any two checks, half point each: pull the seam gently and look for gaps (seam strength); count the stitches in one inch on a seam (stitch density); hold it up to the light or feel the weight (fabric weight); read the label for fiber content and care; check for double rows of stitching at the shoulders; look for bar tacks at pocket corners; check the closure works. The good-result sentence (1 point): for example, "a good result on stitch density is about 10 to 12 stitches per inch," or "a good result on seam strength is no gap and no visible thread when you pull." | 2 | ATPD 4. b), 1. d); National FCS 16.2.7 | | 15 | The $38 heavy cotton blend (1 point), with a reason that names durability over two winters, double-needle seams, more stitches per inch, or cost per wear (1 point). A student who recommends the $13 fleece can earn both points only if the reason handles the two-winter requirement (for example, buying two over two winters and comparing the total), because the item asks for a defended answer, not a preferred one. | 2 | ATPD 1. f), 4. a), 4. b); FCL 4. f); Std 3 PI B | | 16 | R, U in that order (half point each). The sentence (1 point): upcycling keeps the material and makes it into something worth more or as useful, instead of breaking it down into raw material. | 2 | ATPD 2. d); SUS 1. e); National FCS 2.2.3 | | 17 | Any two of: buy less and better; care for what you have; repair; pass it on (resell, hand down, donate, or upcycle). Half point each. What I did (1 point): any true statement about this unit, most often the upcycle project, a repair from the Repair Clinic, sewing on a button, or the Consumer Comparison Task. | 2 | ATPD 4. d), 2. d); SUS 2. e); National FCS 2.2.1 | | 18 | C, A, D, E in that order (half point each). The named on-the-job or apprenticeship career (1 point): tailor, alterations specialist, upholsterer, dry cleaner or garment care specialist, sewing machine technician. Accept costume shop assistant if the student explains it. | 3 | ATPD 5. a), 5. b); CCO 2. a); CDOS 1; National FCS 16.1.1, 16.1.3 | | 19 | a) button, seam (seam repair), patch, in any order matched to the right problem (1 point total, all three needed). b) 54 divided by 300 = $0.18 per wear; 54 divided by 500 = $0.108, about $0.11 per wear. 2 points, 1 for each correct figure with work shown; accept $0.108 or $0.11. c) 1 point: wash in cold water instead of hot, or air dry or tumble dry low instead of high, with a reason that names shrinking, fading, wear on the fibers, or breaking down elastic. | 4 | ATPD 2. c), 2. d), 3. a), 3. b), 4. a); PSI 3. a) a., c., d.; Std 2 PI C; National FCS 16.2.4, 16.4.5 | | 20 | 3 points: 1 point for using cost per wear correctly, with the idea that a repaired garment's cost per wear keeps falling while a new cheap garment's stays high; 1 point for naming quality, with something concrete (seams, stitches per inch, fiber, reinforcement) rather than the word alone; 1 point for naming repair as a real option with something the student can actually do (hem, seam, patch, button). A strong answer also concedes the friend's point where it is true, that buying new is faster and sometimes the garment is past saving. Bonus (2 points): names something a shopper cannot fix alone (factory wages and conditions, how much water a dye house uses, how much a brand overproduces, what a town's recycling accepts) and names who would have to act (the brand, the factory, a government, a group of shoppers together). | 3 (+2) | ATPD 4. a), 4. d), 2. d); FCL 4. f); SUS 1. f), 2. e); National FCS 2.2.1, 16.5.2 | **Total: 50 points** (plus 2 bonus). Part 1 = 10, Part 2 = 15, Part 3 = 11, Part 4 = 4, Part 5 = 3, Part 6 = 7. ## Scoring notes - Items 11 and 19b are the math items. Give full credit for a correct answer with the work shown; give half credit for correct work with an arithmetic slip. A calculator is allowed on these two only. - Items 19 and 20 are the evaluate-and-justify items. On item 19a, all three repairs must be matched correctly for the point; the repairs are the vocabulary of Topic 5.2 and there is no partial credit for one. - Item 15 is deliberately written so a defended minority answer earns full credit. The standard being checked is applying a decision-making model, not picking the teacher's answer. - **Grade 6 version:** item 2 drops spandex and uses three fibers; item 5 drops the needle threader and the measuring tape and gives four tools; item 11 prints the division already set up ("72 รท 180 = ____"); item 19b gives the first figure ($0.18) so the student computes only the second; item 20 asks for three to four sentences and requires only two of the three words. Same key, same points, noted on the paper. - **Grade 8 stretch:** the bonus on item 20 is required for stretch students and offered to everyone. - **ELL:** `Vocabulary 05.md` with the Turkish, Portuguese, and Spanish translations is allowed as a word bank. Item 19's scenario is read aloud once to the whole class. The written response on item 20 may be written in the home language and scored on content; arrange the translation with the ELL teacher. [Sal: check the school's testing accommodation rule.] - **IEP and 504:** items read aloud; reduced-choice versions of the matching items (four options instead of six on item 5, three instead of four on items 1, 2, and 7); calculator on any item; extended time into the first ten minutes of Unit 6 Lesson 6.1 or a study hall; separate setting where the plan says so. - **Retake:** one retake after a review, best score counts, per the grading plan. Use the same key with new numbers on the math items [Sal: swap $72 and 180 wears for $64 and 160; swap $20 and 4 wears for $24 and 6; swap Mia's $54 and 300 wears for $48 and 240 with 160 more wears]. - Return the Upcycle Challenge items and `Rubric 05` as students leave on day 143.