# Assessment 5.2: Stitch Sampler Performance Check

**Unit:** Unit 5, Make It, Mend It, Wear It (Apparel and Textile Production and Design)
**Topic:** 5.2 Hand and Machine Sewing Skills (Lessons 5.5 to 5.11)
**When:** The last 20 minutes of Lesson 5.11 Day 3 (day 131), starting at minute 20 of the period. Step 3 of that lesson's Day 3 procedure holds the slot, on both the machine path and the hand path.
**Category:** Topic assessments (25 percent).
**Points:** 28 (seven rows, each scored 1 to 4)
**What the student submits:** the sampler card with six mounted pieces, plus the finished bag or pouch from Lesson 5.11. The item is scored separately on the 20-point item rubric inside Lesson 5.11; it is brought here so the construction and the individual skills are scored in the same sitting.
**How it is scored:** at the table, out loud, three stations at a time, with the printed checklist in front of the student. The student hears the score and the reason as it is given.

Topic 5.2's formal check is this sampler plus the Lesson 5.11 item, exactly as the Scope and Sequence lists it. Every student who followed the eleven days of this topic (days 121 to 131) has all six pieces already: the five hand pieces from Lessons 5.6 to 5.9 and the machine seam scrap from Lesson 5.11 Day 2, kept in named zip bags in the room.

* * *

# Part 1: The student checklist

Name: ______________________________ Date: ______________ Period: ______

**Directions:** Before you hand in your sampler card, check your own work against this sheet. Circle the level you think each row earns. I will score the same seven rows and we will compare at the table. Being honest about a row you know is weak costs you nothing; guessing high costs you the conversation.

## The six required pieces

Mount all six in the labeled boxes on your sampler card. Label each box with what it is.

| Box | What goes in it | Where it came from | Have it? |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | A running stitch, at least two inches, on the practice cloth | Lesson 5.6 | ______ |
| 2 | A backstitch, at least two inches, on the marked seam line | Lesson 5.7 | ______ |
| 3 | A whipstitch, at least two inches, joining two felt edges | Lesson 5.7 | ______ |
| 4 | A sewn-on button with a shank, on the portfolio card scrap | Lesson 5.8 | ______ |
| 5 | One repair: a hem, a seam, or a patch. A photograph of the repair counts if the garment went home. | Lesson 5.9 | ______ |
| 6 | A machine seam, straight, quarter inch, reverse-locked at both ends. Hand path: your best hand backstitch seam, labeled HAND PATH. | Lesson 5.11 Day 2 | ______ |

## My self-score

Circle one per row. Not Yet is 1, Approaching is 2, Meets is 3, Exceeds is 4.

| Row | 1 | 2 | 3 | 4 |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1. Running stitch | Not Yet | Approaching | Meets | Exceeds |
| 2. Backstitch | Not Yet | Approaching | Meets | Exceeds |
| 3. Whipstitch | Not Yet | Approaching | Meets | Exceeds |
| 4. Sewn-on button | Not Yet | Approaching | Meets | Exceeds |
| 5. Repair | Not Yet | Approaching | Meets | Exceeds |
| 6. Machine seam (hand path: second seam) | Not Yet | Approaching | Meets | Exceeds |
| 7. Tool and machine safety and the count | Not Yet | Approaching | Meets | Exceeds |

## Reflection (back of the sampler card)

1. Which stitch are you best at, and how can you tell? _______________________________________________

2. Which one would you redo, and what would you do differently? _______________________________________________

3. Name one thing you can fix now that you could not fix three weeks ago. _______________________________________________

## My tool safety self-report

Answer honestly. This row is about eleven days of work, days 121 to 131, hand days and machine days both, not about today.

- Days I was the Station Manager and ran the count: ______
- Number of days my station's count matched on the first try: ______
- One time I put a needle or a pin somewhere it did not belong (or write "none"): _______________________________________________
- One time I ran the machine close-down routine without being told, tagged a machine, or caught a tool problem before the teacher did (or write "none"): _______________________________________________

* * *

# Part 2: Teacher scoring sheet

Standards checked by this assessment: NYS ATPD 2. Production a), b), and c); CTE HSW 4. Classroom and Workplace Safety c) and i); NYS FACS Standard 2 (Intermediate) PI C, Students use age-appropriate techniques to select and maintain clothing.; CDOS 3a Technology and CDOS 3a Personal Qualities; National FCS 3.0 16.4.1 and 16.4.5. Row 6 is where the machine half of ATPD 2. c) shows as an individual skill (the bag itself is the constructed evidence), and Row 7 is where HSW 4. i) is scored, because it is the line about demonstrating safety skills through practice across many classroom applications, and eleven days of the count routine plus the machine close-down routine is that practice.

| Criteria | Not Yet (1) | Approaching (2) | Meets (3) | Exceeds (4) |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1. Running stitch. Two inches on a line, stitches and gaps roughly even | Less than an inch, or the stitches vary from tiny to half an inch, or the line is not recognizable as a running stitch | Two inches present but the stitch length changes clearly along the line, or the line wanders off the printed line by more than a quarter inch | Two inches or more, stitches and gaps roughly the same length along the whole line, on the line, fabric flat with no gathering | Meets, and the sample also shows the curve stitched with the same even spacing, or the stitch length was chosen and stated for a purpose |
| 2. Backstitch. Two inches on the seam line, needle returning into the last hole, no gaps on top | The needle did not return into the last hole, so the top has gaps; this is a running stitch, not a backstitch | The return happens for part of the line and is missed in places, so the top shows two or three gaps; or the line drifts off the seam line | Two inches or more, the top reads as a solid line with no gaps, on the marked seam line, fabric flat | Meets, and the student can point to a spot where they found a problem and fixed it, or sewed a second sample at a shorter stitch length and can say what that does to strength |
| 3. Whipstitch. Two inches joining two edges through both layers | Sewn through one layer, so the join opens when pulled; or fewer than five stitches | Both layers caught for most of the run, but the spacing is uneven enough that the two edges gap in places | Two inches or more, every stitch through both layers, even slant and spacing, the two edges meet with no daylight between them | Meets, and the join holds a firm tug with no shifting, and the finish-off is hidden between the layers |
| 4. Sewn-on button. Anchored, shanked, five or six passes, ends on the back | The button comes off with a tug, or there is no anchor stitch, or the button is sewn flat to the fabric with no slack | The button holds a tug but sits flat with no shank, or the thread ends are on the front, or fewer than four passes | Holds a firm tug; the button lifts off the fabric on a visible shank; five or six passes through the hole pairs; ends knotted on the back and trimmed | Meets, and the shank is wrapped so it stands up on its own, or the student sewed a four-hole button in a consistent pattern and can say why a shank is needed |
| 5. Repair. One hem, seam, or patch, using the correct stitch for the job | The wrong stitch for the job (a running stitch on a stress seam), or the repair has already opened | The right stitch but incomplete: the seam repair does not overlap the old stitching, or the hem catches so much of the outer fabric that the front looks like a dotted line, or the patch is stitched on two sides | The right stitch for the job, complete, and it holds: a seam repair overlaps the old stitching on both sides, a hem shows almost nothing on the front, a patch is stitched all the way around | Meets, and the student can say why that repair was the right one for that damage, and what the repair saved against replacing the garment |
| 6. Machine seam. Straight, on the line, reverse-locked both ends (hand path: a second hand backstitch seam, both ends finished) | The seam wanders more than a quarter inch, or neither end is locked, or the fabric is gathered | Near the line with one drift, or one end not locked | Straight on the line, even stitch length, three or four reverse stitches at both ends, fabric flat | Meets, and the scrap also shows a clean pivot corner, or the student can say what the reverse stitches do and why hand seams end differently |
| 7. Tool and machine safety and the count (the same standard as the kitchen's safety row) | A rule broken during the topic: a needle or pin left outside the cushion, kit, or hand; hands past the needle line at a machine; sewing over a pin; a broken needle not reported; or a count that did not match and the student left anyway. A 1 here means a conversation with me and it zeroes the week's participation and safety score (see the Grading Plan) | Rules followed, but reminders were needed (a pin on the table, snips carried point up, the close-down routine prompted, the five-minute warning missed) | Every needle and pin in a legal place on all eleven days; hands to the sides at the machine; pins out before the foot; the close-down routine run unprompted; ran the count as Station Manager at least once with a matching result | Meets, and caught a count problem or a machine problem before I did, tagged a machine correctly, or taught the routine to a classmate who missed the day it was set |

**Total: ______ out of 28**

## Score bands and what to do with them

| Score | What it means | What I do next |
|---|---|---|
| 25 to 28 | Every skill is sound and the safety habit is real | Nothing. This student is a station helper for Topic 5.4's Upcycle Challenge. |
| 19 to 24 | Skills sound, one row weak | Name the row out loud at the table and give the five-minute redo during Lesson 5.12's do now. The redo replaces the row score. |
| 13 to 18 | Two or more skill rows weak | The retake below, run during Lesson 5.12 or 5.13 at a side table while the class works on the consumer comparison. |
| 12 and under, or a 1 on row 7 | Not ready to run a station or a machine unsupervised in Topic 5.4 | The retake, plus the student works at my station for the first day of the Upcycle build. A 1 on row 7 is a conversation with the student first and a call home if it happened more than once. |

## Retake rule

Any row scored 1 or 2 may be redone once, within the same week, and the new score replaces the old one. That follows the Grading Plan's retake rule for topic assessments, applied per row instead of to the whole check, because a student who can sew five of the six pieces should only have to redo the sixth. The redo is five to eight minutes at a side table with me watching, using the same materials, and it happens during the do now and the first work block of Lesson 5.12 or 5.13; the machine seam redo happens at a machine I threaded. Row 7 cannot be redone by sewing; it is redone by running the count and the close-down routine correctly on the first two days of the Topic 5.4 build, which I initial.

## Version for a student who missed days

This version exists so nobody loses points for being absent, per the Grading Plan.

**Missed one or two of Lessons 5.6 to 5.9, or the machine seam day.** The student makes the missing piece or pieces at a side table or a free machine during Lesson 5.11's work blocks, or at a lunch period in the same week. Full credit, scored on the same seven rows. The printed step cards in `Handout 05.06`, `Handout 05.07`, `Handout 05.08`, and `Handout 05.09` are written so a student can work from the sheet with one demonstration from me, which takes about three minutes per stitch.

**Missed three or more of Lessons 5.6 to 5.9.** The student submits a reduced sampler of four pieces, chosen in this order because this is the order of usefulness: the backstitch, the sewn-on button, one repair, and the machine seam. Rows 1 and 3 are not scored. The total is 20 points (five rows: backstitch, button, repair, machine seam, safety and count) and it is scaled to 28 for the gradebook. The student gets one full period of catch-up, which is the Lesson 5.12 or 5.13 period, with a written alternative for the lesson they miss: read the Topic 5.3 comparison handout and complete it at home or in study hall.

**Missed the Lesson 5.11 build days.** The sampler is scored as written above. The item is scored on the written alternative in Lesson 5.11's rubric note: rows scored out of what was possible and scaled to 20, based on an item finished at a lunch period or during the Topic 5.4 build days. **Missed the Lesson 5.10 machine days.** The student earns the threading license and the control boxes at a lunch period or during 5.11's work blocks before sewing at a machine alone; nothing is scored from 5.10.

**Missed Lesson 5.5, the tool safety day.** No student sews until the six needle rules and the count routine have been taught to them. A student who missed day 121 gets the rules and one practice count at my table in the first five minutes of their first sewing day back, and signs the station agreement then. Row 7 is scored from the days they were present.

## How to run the 20 minutes

1. Minute 20: clear the tables, machines through the close-down routine. Call the check.
2. Minutes 20 to 24: students finish mounting and run their own checklist. Collect nothing yet.
3. Minutes 24 to 38: score at the tables, station by station, about 40 seconds per student. Say the row, the level, and the reason. Write the seven numbers on the scoring grid.
4. Minutes 38 to 40: the last count of the topic, out loud, initials on the sheet, and the magnet sweep of the floor.

Forty seconds a student sounds fast and it is enough, because every row is a physical thing you can see in one look and because the student has already told you what they think it is worth. The conversations that need longer are the 1s and the 2s, and those students stay for ninety seconds while the rest run the count.

## Group scoring grid (one per class, three stations of about seven)

This unit is written for three stations of about seven, 21 students. A section of 28 runs a fourth station with a fourth kit: print a second copy of this page and use its Station 1 grid as Station 4.

| Station 1 | Row 1 | Row 2 | Row 3 | Row 4 | Row 5 | Row 6 | Row 7 | Total (28) |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Student 1 | | | | | | | | |
| Student 2 | | | | | | | | |
| Student 3 | | | | | | | | |
| Student 4 | | | | | | | | |
| Student 5 | | | | | | | | |
| Student 6 | | | | | | | | |
| Student 7 | | | | | | | | |

| Station 2 | Row 1 | Row 2 | Row 3 | Row 4 | Row 5 | Row 6 | Row 7 | Total (28) |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Student 1 | | | | | | | | |
| Student 2 | | | | | | | | |
| Student 3 | | | | | | | | |
| Student 4 | | | | | | | | |
| Student 5 | | | | | | | | |
| Student 6 | | | | | | | | |
| Student 7 | | | | | | | | |

| Station 3 | Row 1 | Row 2 | Row 3 | Row 4 | Row 5 | Row 6 | Row 7 | Total (28) |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Student 1 | | | | | | | | |
| Student 2 | | | | | | | | |
| Student 3 | | | | | | | | |
| Student 4 | | | | | | | | |
| Student 5 | | | | | | | | |
| Student 6 | | | | | | | | |
| Student 7 | | | | | | | | |

Notes for the next class: ______________________________________________________________

## Teacher notes

- Do the bag check on Lesson 5.11 Day 1, not Day 3. A student missing one piece can make it on Day 1 or 2. On Day 3 there is no time.
- The reduced-dexterity versions of every stitch (a large needle and yarn on binca or plastic canvas, a large coat button, a visible mend with floss) are scored on the same rows at the same levels. The tool is different; the stitch is the same stitch.
- Score out loud. A performance check scored in silence teaches nothing, and this one is short enough to narrate.
- Keep the sampler cards in the FACS folder until the end of Unit 5, then send them home with the Upcycle Challenge. Photograph three or four of them, names covered, for the website's Unit 5 page.
- [Sal: the 40-seconds-per-student pace assumes three tables of about seven, 21 students. A section of 28 needs a fourth table; at 28, start the check at minute 18 and cut the mounting block to two minutes, and the mounting can be finished in the do now of Lesson 5.12.]